Quite often, there is no difference in meaning between “vintage” and “antique”. Nevertheless, some authorities refer to jewelry of 30-50 years old as vintage whereas antique is considered jewelry at least 50 or 80 years old. The age boundaries are very subjective.
It covers jewelry which is at least 50 or 80 years old. Others maintain that only jewelry more than 100 years old can be considered to be antique. The time boundaries are very flexible. There is another, more recent, category: estate jewelry. This is jewelry which used to belong to someone who died within living memory.
Antique and vintage jewelry should be authentic. It contains classic items of unique value, perennial works of art. They are crafted individually and increase in value with the passage of time.

Vintage or antique diamond engagement rings charm the romantic in all of us who treasures old world values, who are somewhat nostalgic for life in another time. Vintage and antique styles are elegant, often more decorative than contemporary designs, with intricate, filigree lacing and fine, detailed sculpting. These engagement rings bear giant-sized center stones, symbols of wealth and class.

Antique Jewelry Eras

There are several popular eras of antique jewelry:

Georgian (1714-1830)

Jewelry made during the reigns of George I to George IV. They have these characteristic features:

• All jewelry was hand made.
• The motifs are cameos, intaglios, mosaics, acorns, Greek keys, urns, doves, wheat, plumage.
• Styles range from Rococo to Gothic and Neoclassical.

Victorian (1837-1900)

Jewelry made during the reign of Queen Victoria:

• Designs reflected inner feelings.
• The motifs are intertwined hands, serpents, flowers, trees, birds, fans, dragons. These latter two are Japanese. Inscriptions were often engraved on the inside of the rings.
• The techniques are filigree, piercing, cannetille, repoussé.
• Styles: Etruscan, Egyptian, Classical and Renaissance styles are revived. There are Japanese and Indian influences.

Art Nouveau (1890- 1915)

Jewelry made at the turn of the century:

• Although art nouveau translates literally as “new art”, the period was influenced by older styles. It was characterized by a return to craftsmanship and an emphasis on design over material value.
• he motifs are a nymph with flowers in her long hair, peacocks, dragonflies, snakes, butterflies, moths, orchids, waterlilies.
• Enameling techniques were widely used. New materials appeared in jewelry design: ivory, copper, tortoise shell.
• The styles derive from Gothic and rococo with Asian influences. Celtic manuscripts, Persian pottery and ancient Roman glass provide other sources of inspiration.

Edwardian (1901-1914)

Jewelry made during the reign of king Edward VII, son of Queen Victoria.

• While Art Nouveau was an avant-garde style, Edwardian jewels reflected the refined tastes of the upper classes. A cool aristocratic elegance pervaded Edwardian style.
• The motifs were bows, ribbons, tassels, wreaths and flower garlands.
• As for techniques, invisible diamond settings appeared. The millgrained setting became popular. A thin bead of metal securing the stone is ridged and textured with tiny grains or beads. This results in an extremely fine, almost invisible rim around the diamond. At the same time, it is well documented that, for the first time, platinum emerged in design.
• The styles were inspired by the neo-classical and rococo periods, with Indian influences.

Art Deco (1920-1935)

This elegant, sophisticated style of jewelry contrasts sharply with previous styles.

• Design shifts from soft colors to bright, bold, contrasting ones, from flowing lines to straight, geometric shapes.
• The motifs are falcons and sphinxes. Highly-stylized natural motifs symbolizing speed appear: automobiles, planes, arrows, gazelles, panthers.
• A stepped structure of stones leads up to the central stone. Fine millgrain setting points continue to be popular.
• Cubism influences the styles, which are also inspired by Egyptian, Indian, and other motifs.

Retro (1935-1949)

The style of jewelry had a romantic revival. It returned to more feminine lines, under the influence of Hollywood.

• Precious stones are scarcely found in jewels. Semi-precious and synthetic stones are widely used. Jewels become larger in size and more popular.
• The motifs consist of bows, flowers, sunbursts, fans, ribbons, ruffles. Flags and eagles are also found.
• Combinations of gold alloys are used. These result in different tones. There are settings which create illusions. Smaller diamonds are set in elaborately carved, square white gold settings. The jewels appear larger.
• The styles derive from Hollywood glamor.

Shopping Advice

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• If you are not an expert, do not shop for antique jewellery at fairs, auctions and flea markets. It is safer to find a reputable antique jeweller.
• Have the ring professionally appraised (quality of stones, of setting).
• Mind the hallmark. It may be lost during repairs, so ensure you take a photograph. Add a written and signed interpretation of the hallmark for date authentication.
• f necessary, obtain an estimate of repairs. This may keep you from buying another, more expensive, ring in better condition.
• True antiques have a high-quality diamond. If the quality is poor, you may have to seek a replacement.
• True antiques should have old hand-cut stones, displaying detail and high skill.
• White gold is not to be found in jewelry before the First World War.
• Some antique rings are too delicate for today lifestyle. If your fiancee would like to wear a ring every day, Victorian rings are tougher.
• Specialized retailers are a better bet than shops which offer diamonds only.
• The ring usually comes without certification. Its value is not based solely on the value of the diamond but on other factors as well, such as age, design and condition.
• Consult a good valuer personally for an accurate appraisal. On-line estimates are unlikely to be exact.

Unless you have your own family heirloom, a vintage diamond engagement ring can be either bought as such or ordered. You can order a model that looks like an antique if you cannot afford an authentic piece. Originals are expensive but if you want to keep the style there is also the alternative of reproductions. These are called antique style jewelry.

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