There is a variety of diamond shapes. The cut into various shapes is influenced by the original shape of the rough diamond, the position of flaws (technically inclusions) and the demand of the market place. Cut is very often confused with shape. Cut means the actual way in which the stone is brought from rough to a final form and the way it is faceted, the skill of the cutter playing a very important role, whereas diamond shapes refer to the outline, is a matter of personal preference and does not directly affect the value.
Popular Diamond Shapes
Asscher Cut
It is a stepped square cut with cropped corners (often called the “square emerald cut”). The Asscher cut has rapidly gained popularity when stars such as Kate Hudson have received Asscher cuts as engagement rings.
Typical length-to-width ratio: between 1 to 1.00 - 1.05.
Watch out for: inclusions and lower color. They are more noticeable in this cut, so it is better to go for higher quality gems.
Brilliant Cut
The round brilliant was designed to obtain the maximum sparkle in a diamond. It is the most popular shape (75% of the diamonds on the market are Round Brilliant), the one that has set the traditional standard for all diamond shapes. It usually has a 58-facet cut.
Typical length-to-width ratio: 1.50 to 1; 1.75-1.
Watch out for: the proportions, which should be between the ideal parameters. Thus the brilliant cut diamond will reveal its entire potential dazzling beauty.
Cushion Cut
The cushion cut was one of the most popular cuts of diamonds ever (was used mostly from 1830 to the turn of the century). The cushion cut (or “pillow cut”) has an open culet and a rectangular to square shape with rounded corners and a facet plan to give the diamond depth.
The open culet, means the presence of the culet (the bottom of the diamond) as a facet.In modern cuts it is a flaw, resulting in the image of a “hole” in the gem at a close look. However, for old cut types it's a quality and it's one of the charms of an antique diamond.
The cushion cut was designed for candle light. This is quite different from today's diamonds which are cut for brighter electric light. The beauty of a cushion cut lies in the depth of the diamond. Most quality cushion cut diamonds are found only on the antique and estate market.
Typical length-to-width ratio: between 1.1 and 1.2.
Watch out for: the fact that this cut brings out the best in a diamond under candle light. Electric light might be an inconvenience.
Emerald Cut
The Emerald Cut is of rectangular shape with cut corners. The facets alternate with flat planes resembling the steps of a stair. That is why it is referred to as a “step” cut. Unlike the Marquise brilliant, there is no bow-tie effect on an Emerald cut.
Typical length-to-width ratio: 1.50 to1; 1.75-1.
Watch out for: inclusions and lower color. They are more noticeable in Emeralds than in other cuts, therefore it is better to go for higher quality gems.
Heart Shape
The Heart Shaped Brilliant resembles the Pear Shape, except that there is a cleft at the top. In fact, it often happens that cutters may choose a Heart shape over a Pear because the rough diamond contained an inclusion located in the cleft. The beauty of this cut is totally dependent on the skill of the cutter.
Typical length-to-width ratio: 1 to 0.90 -1.10. It is beautiful as a solitaire or when matched with smaller complimentary diamonds.
Watch out for: the overall girdle outline, which must be attractive; the lobes should be even and well defined; the cleft should be polished to ensure maximum brilliance. The heart cut has the bow-tie effect.
Marquise Cut
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This shape has a boat shaped girdle with 57 facets. The shape and placement of the facets is of the brilliant type. The name “Marquise” comes from a legend that says that the Sun King wanted a diamond to be polished into the shape of the mouth of the Marquise of Pompadour.
Typical length-to-width ratio: 1 to 1.75-2.25.
Watch out for: a poor cut, often detectable by the bow-tie effect which can be seen by the unaided eye. The “wings” must be even and the points well-defined.
Oval Cut
This cut is similar to the round brilliant except it is elongated. Oval brilliant cut usually has 56 or 57 facets. The symmetrical design and the ellipsis form seem to elongate hands and fingers.
Typical length-to-width ratio: 1 to 1.30-1.65.
Watch out for: uneven shoulders or high shoulders. A poor cut results in a “bow-tie effect”.
Pear Shape
It is a hybrid shape, combining the Round and Marquise cuts, that looks like a sparkling teardrop. Shoulders should have a gently but distinctly rounded arch. It beautifully compliments the average size hand and fingers. It is best fitted for pendants and earrings but rings with this diamond shape look very original.
Typical length-to-width ratio: 1 to 1.50-1.75.
Watch out for: a poor cut, often detectable by the bow-tie effect.
Princess Cut
The Princess Cut is relatively new. It is a very attractive cut. Its charm comes from the fact that it is rectangular and yet has some of the sparkle of a Round brilliant cut..
Typical length-to-width ratio: 1 to1.00-1.15.
Watch out for: girdles which are too thin, because such girdles are more prone to chipping. The girdle outline must be attractive, with even sides.
Radiant Cut
This is a square or rectangular shape. The elegance of the emerald and the brilliance of the round shape are attributes of this cut. It requires great depth (percentages of 70% to 78% are frequently encountered). It is usually cut with 70 facets (this cut is often confused with “cut corners Princess/Quadrillions”).
Typical length-to-width ratio: 1 to 1.20-1.50.
Watch out for: the fact that side stones or earrings of the same kind of cut are hard to find because they are hard to calibrate and match. To get matched pairs one may have to sort through a hundred stones or re-cut to calibrate.
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Old Cuts
Old Mine Cut
Dates from the 1830's (popular until the end of the century). The cut had a round shape, high crown, small table and faceted culet and was faceted by hand. It had 58 facets and the high crown increased the stone's fire. The old mine cut was designed for candlelight rather than electric light. These stones would sparkle even in a dim candlelit atmosphere.
Rose Cut
Was created in the 16th century. The rose cut has a flat bottom and triangular top facets. Usually the outline is round, oval or pear-shaped. In the 17th century the cut was improved, the facets (that were previously placed at random) became arranged in various symmetrical ways. (for example, there was a cut with a lower range of 18 facets and an upper one of six facets coming to a point at the apex creating the effect of a rosebud just starting to open). Later, this cut was replaced by the brilliant cut. In the 19th century, the rose cut's popularity went on and off. Nowadays it is encountered only occasionally.
It is important to remember that cut is the most critical of all the variables effecting the value of a diamond, even more critical than carat weight, so extra-care should be taken when it comes to choosing the cut for a diamond engagement ring.
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