The choice of metal for a diamond engagement mounting ring is confined to two possibilities when talking about precious metals: gold (white or yellow) or platinum. Silver is relatively inexpensive compared to gold and platinum and is not used for diamond rings settings.
There are also alternative metals used for settings, such as titanium (very trendy because of its properties: hardness, luster) and palladium (similar color and strength to that of platinum, lighter in weight and mostly used in alloys).
Gold
Gold is a precious metal widely used in jewelry and very popular as it is quite affordable.
It has “noble” qualities: it does not rust, corrode or tarnish, it is ductile, it is the most malleable of all metals, it has a high melting point and it is not susceptible to compression. Yellow and white gold share the same strength and malleability characteristics.
Pure gold (24 karats) is too soft for jewelry, that is why alloys of gold and other stronger metals are made (18k=75% gold, 14k=58% gold). The higher the number of carats, the higher the value. Although the cheapest, 14k-gold is the toughest and better for rings.
To obtain high quality jewelry all the ingredients must be pure and the amounts of each must be weighed very accurately.
If you consider gold for the engagement diamond ring make sure the prongs or the part that holds the stone are of platinum, as it ensures more security.
- White gold
- It was invented after the first world war.
- The alloy contains silver or other white metals (palladium for instance). The percentage of gold varies. It looks like platinum but is less expensive and more likely to show wearing signs.
- Yellow gold
- In ancient times, the yellow color was associated with the power and beneficent effects of sunlight and therefore was incorporated into every symbolic aspect of ancient life.
- The alloy contains silver and copper. It is the classic and most common engagement ring setting, less expensive than platinum.
- Pink gold
- The alloy contains more copper than silver. Sometimes it is used as an accent by designers.
Placing together the three or two of the colors might result in a very original jewel.
Platinum
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Platinum is a very expensive metal, being one of the rarest precious metals. Only about 160 tons are obtained annually vs. 1,500 tons of gold. Platinum diamond engagement mounting ring has gained popularity in recent years and became the new popular choice.
- It does not need any coloring agent and has a unique white luster, which is said to bring out the brilliance of diamonds far better than gold.
- It does not rust, corrode or tarnish, it resists chipping or splintering (although scratching may leave a mark), it does not wear and it is very hypoallergenic.
- It is the strongest and the purest ring metal available, as only around 5% of other metals (iridium) are added for better hardness and wearing qualities. Platinum is often used for the setting part that fixes the diamond.
- Platinum has the highest density, weighs 1½ more than gold.
- Fashion consultants think that platinum, as well as white gold, are more compatible with fairer skin tones.
If you choose platinum for the engagement ring, keep in mind that it will wear through any gold bands worn beside it or on the same finger, so the wedding ring must be also platinum.
Titanium
Although it is not a precious metal and is mostly used for light, more resistant alloys, titanium has become a hot trend in recent years.
- Titanium is a lustrous, gray metal, its color being darker than silver or white gold and more comparable to platinum.
- It is immune to corrosive attacks (saltwater, a wide range of corrosive gases, acids and alkalis)
- It is non-magnetic and hypoallergenic, it does not tarnish, it is about as strong as steel but nearly 50% lighter and very durable.
A titanium diamond engagement mounting ring can be created to look just like white gold or platinum, at a fraction of the cost.
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